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Epoxy was poured right into molds on the ground prior to being set up on the ceiling. The rest of the ceiling was painted "Iron Ore" in shade and LED rope lights and light timber trim were included.

You can likewise develop hollow beam of lights by beating up and discoloring 1x8s and after that mounting them together, as one renovator recommended. Picture Credit Scores: Kento Eyre In this motor home restored by the pros at Wayland Ventures, basic discolored 2x6s create beam of lights that run throughout the ceiling. Picture Credit Scores: Wayland Ventures This RV is really an old-fashioned bus in New Zealand!.?.!! To conceal the normally bent roof of the bus, proprietor Andy installed wood paneling throughout sections of his recreational vehicle ceiling.

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Image Debt Terri Closs Right Here is what the owner, Terri, had to say about this ceiling! "Tin ceilings are infamously hefty.

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"That ceiling floor tile was framed by timber molding down the size of the trailer with a versatile resin molding following the contour of the ceiling. Installment was an obstacle. Just how do you hold these ceiling tiles in area while the glue dries? Solution: you utilize a great many versatile wooden springtime posts to pin each piece to the ceiling while it dries out.

For an additional easy ceiling improvement, think about adding aspects like a ceiling fan or a gorgeous light. This can include both beauty and feature to your ceiling. Picture Credit scores: kevinodonnell143 You can utilize any type of kind of property lighting fixture in a recreational vehicle as long as it is properly mounted.

Image Credit: Camp Rebirth Would you remodel your motor home ceiling? Go down a comment and share which of these designs is your preferred! Alyssa Padgett is the author of the best-selling publication, A Novice's Overview to Residing in a motor home. She enjoys all things #RVlife and travels full time around the globe with her household of 4.

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Still that will give all the rain protection I need to maintain the roofing dry. Here is my Recreational vehicle canopy with the sidewall room set installed.

This maintains water moving off in reverse while driving, rather of having the propensity to blow under any joints. The most crucial searching for was that the. This develops a lamination result (like glue in between layers of plywood) that creates a single rigid framework. It is considering exactly how thin the plywood is on both sides! Prior to I began taking apart the roof covering I could leap around on it and feel no flex.

This indicates that in order to keep a solid and lightweight roofing system,. Possibly your motor home is made with wood 24 roof covering framing rafters and has thicker plywood decking ahead. After that it is probably shielded with fiberglass batting and doesn't rely on a lamination impact for toughness. If so, I covet you.

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Now that I can see just how the roof of the motor home is built and the extent of the water damage, I have some vital decisions to make about exactly how to continue with my motor home restoration. Just how much do I wish to fix/replace and in what series? It's time to make a tactical plan for my motor home remodel! roofing system decking plywoodceiling inside RVcabover bunk (the bed area over the cab)ceiling and roof in rear rounded change of roof (over restroom & wardrobe)some framework in sidewalls alongside roof After that I need to consider my objectives and try to stabilize them all.

yet yet yet And ultimately, I need to figure out the, so I don't repair something and afterwards need to reverse it later on for the next fixing. Renovation projects are like a game of chess; you need to expect ten actions ahead to keep from screwing on your own in the process.

If I change the roof covering first and after that want to change some circuitry in the ceiling later on, just how would certainly I obtain to it? I can see that the rounded fiberglass panel at the top of the over head bunk location overlaps the roof covering outdoor decking and the rubber roof covering.

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This set seems like a crazy option to me and means more job than needed, but it is still an option, especially if the water damage in your RV is much more considerable than mine. This would need, and potentially (like the shower room wall surface and closet wall surfaces) yet leaving all the steel roof covering mounting in location.

Put brand-new layer of EPDM rubber roofing on top. This would most closely re-create the initial high quality of the manufacture, would certainly be the lightest possible repair and the strongest roof covering lamination. A big quantity of job, dismantling cupboards and interior walls, along with a great deal of removing circuitry and fixtures.

After that you could end up building cupboards from the ground up. Most costly alternative. PUT A COSMETIC LAYER OVER CEILING, SECOND LAYER OF ROOFING SYSTEM PLY. This would certainly be the most convenient option, simply reduced pieces of slim paneling to cover the entire ceiling (without eliminating closets or wall surfaces). Lay a second layer luan plywood over the old roofing system substrate to cover up damaged areas.

Most affordable, easiest, fastest. Will look equally as good inside as in fact changing all the ceiling ply Larger since consists of numerous layers of ceiling paneling and roof covering paneling. Less strength due to the fact that there will certainly still be some flaked locations of ceiling and roofing system outdoor decking. Most awful of all, I 'd be trapping in rotten wood in the ceiling that may be growing mold and mildew.

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I believe someplace in between these two extremes might be my best alternative. I could change all the 1/8 roof paneling with full sheets and glue it in addition to possible for a full strength roof covering, adhered to by new EPDM roofing system. For the interior ceiling I would very carefully reduce out areas of the ceiling plywood that had water damage and came unglued from the foam insulation, and change them with thoroughly matched items of the exact same thickness 1/8 luan plywood, and adhesive them to the foam as best I can.

Since there would be a practical however crappy-looking mishmash of ceiling paneling in location, I would put a slim cosmetic layer of paneling over the ceiling between the cabinets in the living area. I might choose an eye-catching aged-wood or bead-board paneling that would look cute. I might either adhesive it as much as raise lamination strength, or use detachable bolts in instance I desire to put circuitry or components inside the ceiling later on.

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At the very least this will certainly obtain me going. OK, let's obtain back to it! Following I'm going to eliminate the harmed timber from the roofing..

JimI can not envision why there would be creases on the ceiling. I thought the ceiling panels were like paneling with a glued on coating on one side. Seeing creases I can only think about a dripping roof somewhere. I really hope not, but just believing.(I understand, do not think you damage the group). Will wonder what others think.

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Disclaimer: This post might have associate web links, significance, if you click with and purchase we (or those featured in this message) may make a commission at no additional expense to you. View our full-disclosure right here. Among the biggest tasks we dealt with last month was installing the brand-new ceiling panel in the recreational vehicle.

As you might understand, a few months after we bought our recreational vehicle last year, we found a water leakage can be found in through the skylight. This truly freaked us out due to the fact that while we were preparing to refurbish our motorhome, we had not planned on taking on such a challenging task. We're just satisfied we discovered it before we started any type of big projects.

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You can read much more regarding that here. We had actually spent rather a bit of time tidying up the damage, re-caulking every little thing to stop future water issues, and setting up the new skylight. However, the huge ceiling panel we had to have actually supplied on a freight truck simply sat in our garage for months daunting us every time we strolled past it.

There was great deals of measuring, after that re-measuring, after that re-measuring again prior to cuts were made, and there might have been a number of vouch words even Abraham of The Walking Dead would be pleased of. Eric was a champ and did many of the tough work so I'll allow him clarify exactly how we replaced our ceiling panel.

We are not specialists and changed our ceiling panel to the very best of our capacity with the assistance of our maker. Just like any kind of recreational vehicle project we recommend you inspect with your producer for finest methods, this means you will at least get details directly from the horse's mouth in a manner of speaking.

With that said said we hope the information listed below is helpful for you and your project. You can see our brief video below: Once we realized we had water can be found in via our restroom skylight we right away put a tarp over the roofing and called Tiffin, our RV maker. They were really practical in strolling us via exactly how we could go around replacing the panel, however there is only a lot you can do over the phone.

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Have it fixed skillfully. Considering our damage was not covered by our insurance policy or guarantee it wound up being a little bit out of our budget plan. Leave all of the walls and furnishings in location and reduced the new ceiling panel into numerous items, then put them in location. Get every one of the wall surfaces and closets then position the new ceiling panel in position overall sheet.

I wasn't a huge fan of reducing the panel into many items and fitting them around the wall surfaces that remained in place. I couldn't convince myself it was the very best choice, it may have really well been the most convenient, however I felt either of the various other choices would certainly be more secure.

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As we stood back and looked we decided it was mosting likely to be best to get rid of the walls and completely replace the panel in its totality. When we reached the main cooking area wall surface (the wall still up in the photo over) we hit a couple of snags, particularly the hot water heater, and heating system were both installed versus the wall surface in the reduced cooking area cabinets.

When considering our ceiling with the old panel eliminated we understood we had two walls that can essentially cover both the cuts we would have to make. One wall being the primary kitchen wall, the other being the hallway/bathroom wall surface. Side-Note: We understood we would certainly not be removing the cooking area wall surface, however, we assumed we might be able to glide the brand-new panel (still intact) over the wall surface while it was still in position.

We determined to make both cuts. I went ahead and measured the range from the edge of the panel to the center of the kitchen wall surface (insuring the cut would be concealed under the wall). I additionally selected to do this since the wall surface would assist function as a brace for the 2 items of paneling we would certainly have after the cuts.

The exact same thinking behind this cut as the other, to make sure when the corridor wall surface was placed back in position it would certainly align straight with the cut we made in the ceiling panel. (in the above photo you can see that the panel goes below the kitchen wall surface, producing support while also concealing the cut we made) So now we have two items of the paneling and we understand where they are mosting likely to go, but what about the vents, skylight opening, and wires that need to find through the ceiling panel? It is best to obtain those areas measured and pre-drilled before you put the panel up.

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As opposed to disconnecting the cords, I made an easy cut with my circular saw to the pre-drilled hole to ensure that I can move the cords into area. You might wish to detach the wires first, and that would certainly be flawlessly fine, I would certainly state use your ideal judgment and do what appears right to you.

I did this to make sure that I can put the panel up and make certain my marks were best with the thought that if they were wrong I can after that make use of the right dimension little bit and correct one means or one more if required. Good luck got on my side and all the measurements were right.

For the air vent covers and skylight openings, I used a drill bit huge enough to allow my JigSaw blade in. I chose to obtain the panel in position and safeguarded before removing the larger openings, I did this due to the fact that I really did not wish to pre-cut after that concern discover it had not been lined up properly.

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Prior to we placed the adhesive on and put the panels we really needed to reduce a very mild of the edges off. Once we had that accomplished the panels moved up into placement, and we understood they would fit. We took our spray adhesive and covered both the ceiling and wood backing of the panel, offered it a min to end up being ugly after that pressed the two assemble.