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East Irvine Camper Awning Replacement

Published May 27, 25
11 min read

Camper Service East Irvine, CA



OCRV Center

23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
(714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

(I didn't have the securing knobs tightened down.) I didn't see anything wrong, yet pulled back both awning simply to be safe. The majority of campers around us had their awnings released. We returned home yesterday in the rain, so today I released the awnings to dry them out. That's when I found that the gutter had been retreated from the wall surface (and downspout was missing out on) on the right hand end of the front awning.

It appears that about 18 to 24 inches of the metal extrusion (rainfall seamless gutter) that the awning is moved into has actually pulled away from the wall surface and twisted a little bit - East Irvine Camper Awning Replacement. I'm assuming the repair work will require changing that whole size of rainfall seamless gutter (10 feet?) and most likely using larger gauge screws to change those that were taken out

We have actually obtained busted braces on our camper awning. Two months earlier, we had a poor tire blow-out that caused a bent axle, significant repair work, etc, and we wonder if the braces cracked/broke throughout the bouncy adventure prior to we realized the axle was in trouble. We haven't had the awning out since it was in the store to be repaired.

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The awning itself, springtime system, etc, is great. The back brace setting up is fine, however the front one is fractured at the base and entirely broken through at the top, so that the leading assistance arm no much longer attaches to the camper.

Also the actual support arms are intact. They are white metal (? The real arms are entirely normal/functionalI'm simply desiring to make sure we're not being taken in out of our despair (East Irvine Camper Awning Replacement).

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The RV is a 2007, but we had rain damages in 2010 and the entire awning was brand new at that time. If absolutely nothing else, we would certainly like guidance as to just how we can "jerry gear" this for a while - maybe even get us with the summertime - without having to place in a brand name new awning!

If we have to go awning-less, we will, but I prefer to find a quick and efficient solution. Anyone? Please!.

!! I'm on action 5 of replacing the roofing system of my '93 Fleetwood Jamboree Searcher motorhome. In order to remove the 4th one, I need to eliminate the Recreational vehicle awning.

In order to change the rubber roof and roofing system outdoor decking, I need to eliminate the awning. My RV awning has legs which pivot at the base yet can be removed to set on the ground. Initially I pulled these out. Pushing this bar launches the foot of the awning legs.

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You'll also observe exactly how the bracket is hooked on top of the trim molding that holds down the fiberglass panel in the back corner. That's why the awning requires to find off initially prior to the final actions of this message (exposing the front and back edges of the roof decking).

Here's a detail of exactly how the awning placing braces are screwed right into the camper. I really did not in fact have to do this action up until the awning was on the ground however I observed this established screw here holding the awning canvas into the awning rail (there's another at the right end of the awning.) I went on and unscrewed it.

Once both screws are gotten rid of, simply draw back on the bracket. Loosening the big lag screws that hold the recreational vehicle awning placing braces to the camper (with a socket wrench) Removing the mounting brace once the lag screws have actually been unscrewed. Note exactly how this end was hooked over the termination bar that seals the spherical corner at the rear of the roof.

Both lag screws eliminated from the awning mounting bracket on the right. Eliminating the mounting bracket of the awning. When the placing braces are removed, it's time to get rid of the awning rail. Remember, the awning rail is essentially similar to a normal piece of aluminum roofing edge trim molding other than that near the bottom side there is a circular track with a slot in it.

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To replace the roofing, this awning bar requires to be removed. Right here's an appearance at the circular channel at the bottom of the awning rail. The canvas for the awning slides into this track. Directs! If you're simply replacing your awning and not fixing the whole roofing like me, then you would not need to get rid of the awning rail.

Dropping the legs a couple of notches to lower the entire awning. Currently I can reach this trim molding (the awning rail) quickly. Currently it's much like getting rid of the side trim molding on the various other side of the camper. Draw out the plastic insert that covers the screw heads (you may need to cut completion with an energy knife if it is put under the rail) and afterwards simply pull it out.

You may have to cut the end with an energy blade if it is wrapped under. Simply pull it out!

As soon as the screws were out I began prying up the awning rail. When I started to tear off the awning rail, the entire thing instantly snapped off and rolled up right into the awning like a home window blind.

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Simply recognize it's coming! When the screws are eliminated, the awning rail can be torn up. You can see the side of the rubber roof covering that was fastened under it. When you begin pulling the awning rail away it will instantly snap free and roll up like a window blind with the awning.

This point is hefty so if you're functioning alone like me then decrease it the ground little bit by little by strolling the legs away from the camper on each side individually until you can lay it on the ground. I flipped the legs back up and out of the means against the camper.

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These screws maintain the awning canvas from gliding in the rail. Once they're removed the rail just slides right off the canvas by moving the whole rail to one side.

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Once the two set screws were eliminated I could move the entire awning rail right off the awning. Another look at the profile of this trim molding (the awning rail) after it was eliminated.

I pried them out as finest I could. The fiberglass skin over the rounded change had some rusty staples stifling. I pried them out as best I could. The following thing holding down the rv fiberglass home siding panels is the edge trim molding shown right here. It has a plastic screw cover strip placed, so once again I just pried up the vinyl insert and took out sufficient so I can loosen some screw heads.

I might finish up removing it later on if I require to replace the luan plywood below this fiberglass change. To lift that, the edge molding must be gotten rid of.

I could swing the trim mold and mildew off the side enough to lift up the edge of the fiberglass panel. When I might turn that item of edge molding off the side, I began to tear up the fiberglass panel. It has glue under it and littles rusted staples and sheared off screws still holding it in position.

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At that point I changed from a scrape to 6 inch broad taping blade. I loosened the various other edge trim in the very same way, and bent it laterally simply enough so that I can lift up the side of the fiberglass panel.

I found a lot of water damages in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll possibly be changing it. Which suggests I'll end getting rid of those corner trim items all the method down. We'll get to that later. I had a significant quantity of water damage in the joint between the rounded edge and the roof deck.

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The side of the roofing system outdoor decking is exposed at the back of the camper! I have actually revealed the roofing substratum at the back edge of the camper. Currently its time to find the front side.

Again, I tore that layer up as well (there had not been much stifling but adhesive at this moment) and after that I might pull out the rest of the rubber roof covering that was glued underneath it. Currently I can pull out the last little rubber roof from below the fiberglass and luan plywood.

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I noticed there were no bolts holding the roofing plywood down. It was simply glued. So I began thoroughly peeling it up. I could see the blue styrofoam insulation beneath the harmed areas of luan plywood on the roofing system. Notice there are no fasteners whatsoever holding down the roof plywood! It is completely glued.

When I scraped up some of the busted bits I obtained hold of a solid item of plywood and started to draw. The entire thing began to pull up easily in one piece without harming the foam board insulation at all.

There is a metal enhanced tape under that joins the assemble. I don't recognize exactly how specifically they handled to glue whatever down so well and obtain this tape joining them from the bottom, yet it was nicely done. The pieces of roof covering ply are joined with each other at the joints underneath with a metal-reinforced tape.

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I swiftly realized the roofing was shedding strength and stiffness as I brought up the top layer, so fractured it off simply before the initial seam. A close up of the metal framing in the roof covering: one inch wide, one and a fifty percent inches high. Below's a detail of the electrical wiring in the insulation foam and the solid timber supports where the antennas screw into the roofing.

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I located a number of water damage in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll probably be replacing it. I had a substantial amount of water damages in the joint in between the rounded edge and the roofing system deck.

The side of the roofing outdoor decking is exposed at the back of the camper! I've exposed the roof covering substratum at the back edge of the camper. Now its time to locate the front edge.

Again, I tore that layer up also (there wasn't much stifling yet glue at this point) and afterwards I could yank out the remainder of the rubber roofing that was glued beneath it. East Irvine Camper Awning Replacement. Currently I can draw out the last little bit of rubber roofing from underneath the fiberglass and luan plywood

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I observed there were no fasteners holding the roof plywood down. I could see the blue styrofoam insulation beneath the damaged areas of luan plywood on the roofing. Notice there are no fasteners at all holding down the roofing plywood!

Once I scuffed up some of the busted little bits I obtained hold of a strong item of plywood and began to pull. The entire thing started to pull up cleanly unscathed without damaging the foam board insulation whatsoever. Now I might see the steel framework beneath. Yet then the plywood began peeling up as one piece, leaving all the styrofoam well undamaged.

There is a metal reinforced tape on the base that joins the assemble. I do not recognize how precisely they managed to adhesive whatever down so well and obtain this tape joining them from the underside, however it was nicely done. The items of roof covering ply are collaborated at the joints beneath with a metal-reinforced tape.

OCRV Center

Address: 23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
Phone: (714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

I promptly recognized the roof covering was losing strength and tightness as I pulled up the top layer, so cracked it off simply before the first seam. A close up of the metal framing in the roof covering: one inch wide, one and a fifty percent inches tall. Here's an information of the wiring in the insulation foam and the solid wood supports where the antennas screw into the roof covering.

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