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Pop Up Camper Repair Near Me Orange County

Published Jun 10, 25
11 min read

Camper Trailer Repair Near Me Orange County, CA



OCRV Center

23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
(714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

(I didn't have the locking knobs tightened up down.) I really did not see anything wrong, yet pulled back both awning just to be risk-free. Most campers around us had their awnings deployed. We returned home yesterday in the rain, so today I released the awnings to dry them out. That's when I uncovered that the gutter had actually been pulled away from the wall (and downspout was missing) on the right-hand man end of the front awning.

It shows up that concerning 18 to 24 inches of the steel extrusion (rainfall gutter) that the awning is moved into has actually drawn away from the wall and turned a bit - Pop Up Camper Repair Near Me Orange County. I'm presuming the repair work will entail replacing that whole size of gutter (10 feet?) and possibly making use of bigger scale screws to change those that were taken out

We've obtained broken brackets on our camper awning. 2 months back, we had a negative tire blow-out that triggered a bent axle, major fixings, etc, and we ask yourself if the braces cracked/broke during the bouncy adventure before we understood the axle was in problem. We have not had the awning out given that it was in the shop to be repaired.

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The awning itself, springtime device, and so on, is fine. The back bracket setting up is great, however the front one is cracked at the bottom and entirely damaged through at the top, so that the leading support arm no longer affixes to the camper.

Also the real support arms are intact. They are white metal (? The real arms are completely normal/functionalI'm just wanting to make sure we're not being taken in out of our anxiety (Pop Up Camper Repair Near Me Orange County).

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Are they that brand-specific and exclusive that if one item is broken it needs to be completely changed? The recreational vehicle is a 2007, however we had rainfall damage in 2010 and the whole awning was new back then. If nothing else, we would certainly like guidance regarding exactly how we can "jerry gear" this for some time - maybe also obtain us with the summertime - without needing to put in a brand brand-new awning! We remain in an extremely major bind due to the fact that we have actually a journey planned in mid June that is not optional and can not be transformed or delayed.

If we need to go awning-less, we will, but I 'd rather discover a quick and effective remedy. Any individual? Please!.

Welcome to my Recreational Vehicle Restoration Series!.?.!! I'm on step 5 of replacing the roof covering of my '93 Fleetwood Jamboree Searcher motorhome. In the last action I got rid of the roof covering trim molding from three sides of the roof. In order to remove the 4th one, I require to get rid of the Recreational vehicle awning.

In order to change the rubber roofing system and roof covering decking, I need to remove the awning. My RV awning has legs which pivot at the base but can be eliminated to set on the ground.

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You'll likewise discover exactly how the bracket is hooked on top of the trim molding that holds back the fiberglass panel in the back edge. That's why the awning requires to come off first before the last steps of this message (exposing the front and back edges of the roofing system outdoor decking).

Right here's an information of exactly how the awning installing brackets are screwed right into the camper. I really did not in fact need to do this action up until the awning got on the ground yet I noticed this set screw right here holding the awning canvas into the awning rail (there's another at the best end of the awning.) I went in advance and loosened it.

Once both screws are gotten rid of, just draw back on the bracket. Loosening the big lag screws that hold the motor home awning placing braces to the camper (with a socket wrench) Eliminating the mounting bracket once the lag screws have actually been unscrewed. Note how this end was hooked over the termination bar that seals the rounded edge at the back of the roof covering.

Both lag screws eliminated from the awning installing bracket on the. Eliminating the placing bracket of the awning.

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To change the roofing system, this awning bar requires to be gotten rid of. Right here's a consider the circular network at the bottom of the awning rail. The canvas for the awning slides into this track. Heads up! If you're just changing your awning and not fixing the entire roof covering like me, after that you wouldn't need to eliminate the awning rail.

Dropping the legs a few notches to reduce the entire awning. Currently I can reach this trim molding (the awning rail) easily.

You might have to reduce the end with an energy knife if it is covered under. Just yank it out!

Once the screws were out I began spying up the awning rail. (There will certainly be some butyl tape or putty sticking it to the rubber beneath.) HEADS UP! Once I began to pry off the awning rail, the whole point unexpectedly snapped off and rolled up right into the awning like a window blind.

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Just understand it's coming! When the screws are removed, the awning rail can be torn up. You can see the side of the rubber roof covering that was attached under it. As soon as you begin drawing the awning rail away it will all of a sudden break free and roll up like a window blind with the awning.

This point is hefty so if you're functioning alone like me after that decrease it the ground gradually by walking the legs away from the camper on each side one by one till you can lay it on the ground. Then I turned the legs back up and out of the method against the camper.

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I leaned the legs back versus the camper. When the awning was on the ground I removed the little collection screw at the right end of the awning, (I eliminated the one at the left end previously.) These screws keep the awning canvas from gliding in the rail. Once they're removed the rail simply slides right off the canvas by sliding the entire rail away.

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As soon as both established screws were eliminated I might move the entire awning rail straight off the awning. One more appearance at the account of this trim molding (the awning rail) after it was gotten rid of. Woo hoo! The awning is off! The last action prior to I can eliminate the old roofing decking is to reveal the ends of it where the fiberglass panels overlap it at the front and back of the camper.

The following point holding down the recreational vehicle fiberglass siding panels is the corner trim molding revealed right here. It has a plastic screw cover strip put, so again I simply pried up the vinyl insert and drew out sufficient so I could loosen some screw heads.

I may end up removing it later on if I require to change the luan plywood under this fiberglass shift. The roof outdoor decking plywood prolongs under the fiberglass skin at the back of the camper. In order to change it, this fiberglass change should be lifted. To raise that, the edge molding have to be gotten rid of.

After that I can swing the trim mold off the side enough to raise up the side of the fiberglass panel. As soon as I can turn that piece of corner molding off the side, I began to pry up the fiberglass panel. It has adhesive under it and bits of rusted staples and sheared off screws still holding it in area.

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At that factor I changed from a scrape to 6 inch broad taping knife. I loosened up the other edge trim in the same means, and bent it sideways simply sufficient so that I might raise up the edge of the fiberglass panel.

I discovered a number of water damage in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll probably be replacing it. Which means I'll end eliminating those corner trim pieces completely down nevertheless. Yet we'll get to that later on. I had a significant amount of water damage in the joint between the rounded corner and the roof deck.

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It's just standing out via the staples. Ultimately the edge of the roof covering outdoor decking is subjected at the back of the camper! OK! I have actually subjected the roofing substratum at the back side of the camper. Now its time to find the leading edge. Same bargain again. Eliminate some screws from the edge trim holding back the fiberglass panel.

Once again, I tore that layer up as well (there wasn't much stifling however glue now) and after that I might yank out the remainder of the rubber roof covering that was glued underneath it. Now I can pull out the last little rubber roof from beneath the fiberglass and luan plywood.

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I saw there were no fasteners holding the roofing system plywood down. I might see the blue styrofoam insulation beneath the harmed locations of luan plywood on the roof. Notification there are no fasteners at all holding down the roofing system plywood!

Once I scuffed up a few of the busted bits I got hold of a solid item of plywood and started to pull. The entire point started to bring up easily unharmed without damaging the foam board insulation at all. Currently I can see the steel framing underneath. Yet then the plywood began peeling up as one piece, leaving all the styrofoam well intact.

There is a metal reinforced tape under that joins the assemble. I don't know exactly how precisely they took care of to adhesive everything down so well and obtain this tape joining them from the underside, however it was perfectly done. The items of roof ply are joined together at the joints below with a metal-reinforced tape.

Camper Repair Near Me Orange County, CA

I rapidly understood the roof covering was shedding toughness and tightness as I drew up the top layer, so cracked it off simply prior to the initial seam. A close up of the metal framework in the roof covering: one inch wide, one and a half inches tall. Below's a detail of the wiring in the insulation foam and the strong timber supports where the antennas screw right into the roofing.

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I located a bunch of water damage in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll most likely be changing it. Which suggests I'll finish removing those corner trim items all the means down. But we'll reach that later. I had a considerable amount of water damages in the joint between the rounded corner and the roofing deck.

It's just standing out through the staples. The edge of the roofing decking is exposed at the back of the camper! OK! I have actually exposed the roofing system substratum at the back edge of the camper. Currently its time to find the front side. Very same deal again. Get rid of some screws from the corner trim holding back the fiberglass panel.

Again, I pried that layer up too (there wasn't much holding it down however adhesive at this point) and after that I could tug out the remainder of the rubber roof covering that was glued beneath it. Pop Up Camper Repair Near Me Orange County. Currently I can take out the last little bit of rubber roof covering from beneath the fiberglass and luan plywood

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I observed there were no fasteners holding the roofing plywood down. I can see the blue styrofoam insulation beneath the harmed locations of luan plywood on the roofing. Notification there are no fasteners at all holding down the roof plywood!

When I scuffed up several of the busted bits I acquired a strong item of plywood and started to draw. The entire thing started to bring up easily unscathed without damaging the foam board insulation in all. Now I could see the steel framework under. But after that the plywood started peeling up as one piece, leaving all the styrofoam well undamaged.

There is a metal enhanced tape on the bottom that joins the items with each other. I do not recognize just how precisely they took care of to adhesive every little thing down so well and obtain this tape joining them from the bottom, yet it was perfectly done. The pieces of roofing ply are collaborated at the joints below with a metal-reinforced tape.

OCRV Center

Address: 23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
Phone: (714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

I swiftly understood the roof was shedding strength and stiffness as I brought up the top layer, so broke it off just prior to the very first seam. A close up of the metal framework in the roof: one inch wide, one and a half inches high. Here's an information of the wiring in the insulation foam and the strong timber reinforcements where the antennas screw right into the roof covering.

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