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Pomona Camper Roof Replacement

Published Jun 09, 25
11 min read

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OCRV Center

23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
(714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

(I really did not have the locking handles tightened up down.) I really did not see anything awry, but pulled back both awning just to be risk-free. Many campers around us had their awnings deployed. We returned home yesterday in the rain, so today I released the awnings to dry them out. That's when I discovered that the rainfall gutter had actually been pulled away from the wall (and downspout was missing out on) on the right-hand man end of the front awning.

It shows up that regarding 18 to 24 inches of the metal extrusion (gutter) that the awning is glided into has actually pulled away from the wall and turned a little bit - Pomona Camper Roof Replacement. I'm assuming the repair work will involve changing that whole length of rainfall gutter (10 feet?) and possibly making use of bigger scale screws to replace those that were drawn out

We have actually obtained damaged braces on our camper awning. Two months back, we had a negative tire blow-out that created a bent axle, major fixings, and so on, and we ask yourself if the brackets cracked/broke throughout the bouncy adventure before we realized the axle remained in trouble. We haven't had the awning out since it remained in the store to be fixed.

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The awning itself, spring system, etc, is great. The back bracket setting up is fine, however the front one is split near the bottom and entirely appeared on top, so that the leading support arm no longer fastens to the camper. We are in difficulty. I don't want/like to camp without it.

Even the actual support arms are intact. They are white steel (? The actual arms are completely normal/functionalI'm simply desiring to make sure we're not being taken in out of our anxiety (Pomona Camper Roof Replacement).

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The Recreational vehicle is a 2007, however we had rain damage in 2010 and the whole awning was brand new at that time. If absolutely nothing else, we would such as advice as to exactly how we can "jerry gear" this for a while - maybe also obtain us with the summer - without having to put in a brand new awning!

If we need to go awning-less, we will, however I 'd instead locate a fast and reliable remedy. Any individual? Please!.

!! I'm on action 5 of changing the roofing system of my '93 Fleetwood Jamboree Searcher motorhome. In order to remove the 4th one, I need to eliminate the Motor home awning.

In order to replace the rubber roof covering and roofing system outdoor decking, I require to eliminate the awning. My RV awning has legs which pivot at the base but can be removed to establish on the ground.

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You'll likewise observe how the brace is hooked on top of the trim molding that holds back the fiberglass panel in the back corner. That's why the awning needs to come off initially before the final actions of this message (subjecting the front and back edges of the roof covering decking).

Here's an information of how the awning mounting brackets are screwed right into the camper. I didn't actually have to do this action up until the awning got on the ground but I observed this established screw right here holding the awning canvas into the awning rail (there's one more at the ideal end of the awning.) I went ahead and unscrewed it.

Once both screws are removed, merely pull back on the brace. Unscrewing the huge lag screws that hold the motor home awning placing brackets to the camper (with an outlet wrench) Removing the placing bracket once the lag screws have actually been unscrewed. Note exactly how this end was hooked over the discontinuation bar that seals the spherical edge at the rear of the roof covering.

Both lag screws gotten rid of from the awning installing bracket on the right. Eliminating the installing brace of the awning. As soon as the installing brackets are detached, it's time to remove the awning rail. Keep in mind, the awning rail is generally similar to a routine item of light weight aluminum roof side trim molding other than that near the bottom edge there is a circular track with a slot in it.

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To replace the roof, this awning bar needs to be removed. Right here's a look at the circular network at the end of the awning rail. The canvas for the awning slides right into this track. Directs! If you're simply changing your awning and not fixing the entire roofing system like me, then you wouldn't need to remove the awning rail.

Dropping the legs a couple of notches to reduce the entire awning. Currently I can reach this trim molding (the awning rail) quickly.

You may need to reduce completion with an energy knife if it is covered under. Simply yank it out! Once the vinyl screw cover insert was out I removed the screws with a cordless drill and the socket head from my ratchet screwdriver set. This went rather promptly.

When the screws were out I started spying up the awning rail. As soon as I started to pry off the awning rail, the whole thing suddenly snapped off and rolled up into the awning like a window blind.

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When the screws are eliminated, the awning rail can be pried up. As soon as you start drawing the awning rail away it will suddenly snap totally free and roll up like a window blind with the awning.

This thing is heavy so if you're working alone like me then reduce it the ground little by little by strolling the legs away from the camper on each side individually till you can lay it on the ground. I turned the legs back up and out of the way against the camper.

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Then I leaned the legs back against the camper. As soon as the awning was on the ground I got rid of the little collection screw at the best end of the awning, (I eliminated the one at the left end previously.) These screws maintain the awning canvas from sliding in the rail. Once they're removed the rail simply slides right off the canvas by gliding the entire rail away.

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When the two established screws were removed I could slide the entire awning rail right off the awning. One more look at the profile of this trim molding (the awning rail) after it was eliminated.

I tore them out as best I could. The fiberglass skin over the rounded transition had some rusty staples quieting. I tore them out as finest I could. The following thing holding back the recreational vehicle fiberglass home siding panels is the corner trim molding revealed right here. It has a vinyl screw cover strip inserted, so once more I just tore up the plastic insert and took out sufficient so I can unscrew some screw heads.

I may end up eliminating it later if I need to change the luan plywood below this fiberglass change. The roof covering outdoor decking plywood prolongs under the fiberglass skin at the rear of the camper. In order to change it, this fiberglass change must be raised. To lift that, the corner molding should be gotten rid of.

After that I can turn the trim mold off the side enough to lift up the edge of the fiberglass panel. When I can swing that item of edge molding off the side, I started to tear up the fiberglass panel. It has glue under it and little bits of rusted staples and sheared off screws still holding it in position.

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At that factor I switched from a scraper to 6 inch vast taping blade. I loosened up the various other corner trim in the exact same method, and bent it sidewards just enough so that I can lift up the edge of the fiberglass panel.

I found a bunch of water damages in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll probably be replacing it. Which implies I'll end removing those corner trim pieces completely down after all. Yet we'll get to that later. I had a considerable quantity of water damage in the joint between the rounded corner and the roofing system deck.

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The side of the roof covering decking is exposed at the back of the camper! I've revealed the roofing substrate at the back edge of the camper. Now its time to discover the front side.

Once again, I pried that layer up too (there wasn't much holding it down however adhesive now) and after that I can pull out the remainder of the rubber roof covering that was glued below it. Currently I can draw out the last little bit of rubber roof covering from beneath the fiberglass and luan plywood.

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I noticed there were no bolts holding the roof covering plywood down. I could see the blue styrofoam insulation beneath the damaged areas of luan plywood on the roofing system. Notification there are no bolts at all holding down the roofing plywood!

As soon as I scuffed up some of the broken bits I got hold of a strong piece of plywood and began to pull. The whole point started to pull up easily in one item without damaging the foam board insulation at all.

There is a steel reinforced tape under that signs up with the assemble. I don't know exactly how precisely they managed to adhesive everything down so well and obtain this tape joining them from the bottom, however it was nicely done. The items of roofing system ply are collaborated at the joints beneath with a metal-reinforced tape.

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I swiftly realized the roof was shedding toughness and tightness as I pulled up the top layer, so fractured it off just prior to the first seam. A close up of the steel framing in the roofing system: one inch wide, one and a half inches tall. Below's a detail of the electrical wiring in the insulation foam and the solid timber reinforcements where the antennas screw into the roof covering.

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I located a bunch of water damage in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll most likely be replacing it. I had a considerable amount of water damage in the joint between the rounded edge and the roofing deck.

The side of the roof decking is exposed at the back of the camper! I have actually exposed the roofing substratum at the back side of the camper. Now its time to find the front edge.

Again, I pried that layer up as well (there wasn't much quieting but glue at this point) and afterwards I could tug out the remainder of the rubber roof that was glued below it. Pomona Camper Roof Replacement. Currently I can take out the last little bit of rubber roof from below the fiberglass and luan plywood

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I discovered there were no fasteners holding the roofing plywood down. I might see the blue styrofoam insulation beneath the damaged locations of luan plywood on the roof covering. Notification there are no fasteners at all holding down the roof covering plywood!

As soon as I scratched up some of the broken bits I obtained hold of a solid piece of plywood and started to pull. The entire point started to draw up cleanly in one item without harming the foam board insulation at all.

There is a metal enhanced tape under that signs up with the assemble. I do not understand how precisely they handled to glue whatever down so well and obtain this tape joining them from the bottom, but it was well done. The pieces of roof covering ply are joined with each other at the joints beneath with a metal-reinforced tape.

OCRV Center

Address: 23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
Phone: (714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

I quickly recognized the roofing was shedding strength and tightness as I brought up the top layer, so cracked it off right before the first seam. A close of the steel framework in the roof: one inch wide, one and a half inches high. Here's a detail of the circuitry in the insulation foam and the strong timber reinforcements where the antennas screw into the roofing system.

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