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Villa Park Camper Roof Repair

Published Jun 01, 25
11 min read

Camper Awning Repair Villa Park, CA



OCRV Center

23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
(714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

Many campers around us had their awnings deployed. We returned home the other day in the rainfall, so today I deployed the awnings to dry them out.

It appears that about 18 to 24 inches of the steel extrusion (gutter) that the awning is moved into has actually retreated from the wall and turned a little bit - Villa Park Camper Roof Repair. I'm presuming the repair will involve replacing that entire size of gutter (10 feet?) and possibly making use of bigger scale screws to change those that were pulled out

We have actually got busted braces on our camper awning. 2 months earlier, we had a negative tire blow-out that created a curved axle, significant repair work, and so on, and we wonder if the brackets cracked/broke during the bouncy ride prior to we realized the axle remained in trouble. We have not had the awning out considering that it was in the shop to be fixed.

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The awning itself, springtime system, and so on, is great. The rear brace setting up is great, yet the front one is split at the bottom and entirely broken through on top, so that the leading assistance arm no longer attaches to the camper. We remain in problem. I don't want/like to camp without it.

Also the real support arms are intact. They are white steel (? The real arms are entirely normal/functionalI'm simply wanting to make certain we're not being taken in out of our desperation (Villa Park Camper Roof Repair).

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Are they that brand-specific and proprietary that if one piece is damaged it needs to be entirely replaced? The RV is a 2007, however we had rain damages in 2010 and the whole awning was brand name new at that time. If nothing else, we would such as suggestions regarding exactly how we can "jerry rig" this for a while - perhaps also obtain us via the summer - without having to put in a brand name new awning! We remain in an extremely severe bind since we have actually a trip prepared in mid June that is not optional and can not be altered or delayed.

If we need to go awning-less, we will, however I 'd rather discover a fast and effective option. Anybody? Please!.

Invite to my Recreational Vehicle Remodelling Collection!.?.!! I'm on action 5 of replacing the roofing of my '93 Fleetwood Jamboree Searcher motorhome. In the last action I removed the roofing system trim molding from three sides of the roofing. However in order to eliminate the 4th one, I require to remove the motor home awning also.

In order to replace the rubber roof and roof decking, I need to remove the awning. My RV awning has legs which pivot at the base yet can be gotten rid of to set on the ground. Initially I drew these out. Pushing this bar releases the foot of the awning legs.

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You'll also notice exactly how the brace is hooked on top of the trim molding that holds back the fiberglass panel in the back corner. That's why the awning requires ahead off initially prior to the last steps of this blog post (exposing the front and back sides of the roofing decking).

Right here's an information of just how the awning installing braces are screwed right into the camper. I really did not actually need to do this step until the awning was on the ground but I noticed this established screw here holding the awning canvas right into the awning rail (there's an additional at the right end of the awning.) I went ahead and unscrewed it.

Once both screws are gotten rid of, merely draw back on the bracket. Unscrewing the large lag screws that hold the recreational vehicle awning mounting braces to the camper (with an outlet wrench) Removing the installing bracket once the lag screws have actually been unscrewed. Keep in mind exactly how this end was hooked over the termination bar that secures the rounded edge at the rear of the roofing.

Both lag screws eliminated from the awning mounting brace on the. Getting rid of the installing bracket of the awning. When the installing brackets are removed, it's time to eliminate the awning rail. Bear in mind, the awning rail is essentially similar to a normal item of light weight aluminum roofing system side trim molding except that at the lower side there is a round track with a slot in it.

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To change the roof, this awning bar needs to be removed. If you're just changing your awning and not fixing the whole roof like me, then you would not require to eliminate the awning rail.

Going down the legs a few notches to reduce the entire awning. Now I can reach this trim molding (the awning rail) conveniently. Now it's similar to eliminating the side trim molding beyond of the camper. Take out the vinyl insert that covers the screw heads (you might need to cut completion with an energy blade if it is put under the rail) and then simply pull it out.

You may need to cut the end with an utility blade if it is wrapped under. Then simply tug it out! When the vinyl screw cover insert was out I got rid of the screws with a cordless drill and the socket head from my ratchet screwdriver collection. This went quite promptly.

When the screws were out I began spying up the awning rail. Once I began to tear off the awning rail, the whole thing instantly snapped off and rolled up right into the awning like a home window blind.

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Feel in one's bones it's coming! Once the screws are removed, the awning rail can be torn up. You can see the edge of the rubber roof that was attached under it. As soon as you begin pulling the awning rail away it will all of a sudden snap totally free and roll up like a window blind with the awning.

This point is hefty so if you're functioning alone like me then decrease it the ground bit by bit by walking the legs far from the camper on each side individually up until you can lay it on the ground. After that I flipped the legs back up and off the beaten track versus the camper.

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These screws maintain the awning canvas from sliding in the rail. Once they're removed the rail just glides right off the canvas by sliding the entire rail to one side.

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Once both set screws were removed I could glide the whole awning rail right off the awning. Another look at the account of this trim molding (the awning rail) after it was gotten rid of. Woo hoo! The awning is off! The last step prior to I can remove the old roofing system decking is to reveal the ends of it where the fiberglass panels overlap it at the front and rear of the camper.

The next thing holding down the rv fiberglass home siding panels is the corner trim molding revealed here. It has a plastic screw cover strip inserted, so once again I simply tore up the vinyl insert and pulled out enough so I could loosen some screw heads.

Nevertheless I may wind up eliminating it later on if I require to change the luan plywood below this fiberglass shift. The roofing system decking plywood prolongs under the fiberglass skin at the rear of the camper. In order to change it, this fiberglass transition must be lifted. To raise that, the corner molding must be removed.

I could swing the trim mold and mildew off the side enough to lift up the edge of the fiberglass panel. When I could swing that piece of corner molding off the side, I began to pry up the fiberglass panel. It has glue under it and bits of rusted staples and sheared off screws still holding it in position.

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I switched over from a scraper to a rigid 6 large putty knife. This piece cracked out of the fiberglass panel when I was attempting to tear it up. At that point I changed from a scrape to 6 inch large taping blade. After that I loosened the various other edge trim similarly, and curved it sideways simply sufficient to ensure that I might raise up the side of the fiberglass panel.

I found a lot of water damage in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll possibly be changing it. I had a substantial quantity of water damages in the joint between the rounded corner and the roofing system deck.

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It's simply standing out with the staples. Lastly the side of the roof outdoor decking is revealed at the back of the camper! OK! I've subjected the roofing system substrate at the back edge of the camper. Currently its time to discover the front side. Very same offer again. Eliminate some screws from the corner trim holding back the fiberglass panel.

Again, I pried that layer up as well (there wasn't much stifling yet glue at this moment) and after that I can tug out the remainder of the rubber roof that was glued below it. Currently I can take out the last little bit of rubber roof covering from underneath the fiberglass and luan plywood.

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I saw there were no fasteners holding the roofing system plywood down. It was simply glued. So I began meticulously peeling it up. I could see the blue styrofoam insulation under the harmed areas of luan plywood on the roof. Notice there are no bolts in any way holding back the roof covering plywood! It is completely glued.

Once I scratched up some of the busted bits I got hold of a strong item of plywood and began to draw. The entire point started to pull up easily in one piece without harming the foam board insulation at all.

There is a steel enhanced tape on the base that signs up with the assemble. I don't understand exactly how specifically they managed to adhesive whatever down so well and obtain this tape joining them from the underside, yet it was nicely done. The pieces of roofing ply are collaborated at the seams underneath with a metal-reinforced tape.

Camper Repair Shop Villa Park, CA

I rapidly recognized the roof covering was losing stamina and stiffness as I brought up the leading layer, so fractured it off right before the first seam. A close up of the metal framework in the roof covering: one inch wide, one and a half inches tall. Right here's an information of the wiring in the insulation foam and the solid wood supports where the antennas screw into the roof.

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I located a number of water damages in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll most likely be replacing it. Which means I'll end removing those edge trim items right down besides. However we'll obtain to that later on. I had a substantial quantity of water damages in the joint in between the rounded corner and the roof covering deck.

It's simply popping via the staples. Ultimately the edge of the roof outdoor decking is subjected at the rear of the camper! OK! I have actually subjected the roof substratum at the back side of the camper. Currently its time to discover the front edge. Exact same deal again. Eliminate some screws from the corner trim holding down the fiberglass panel.

Once more, I tore that layer up as well (there wasn't much stifling yet glue at this point) and then I can tug out the remainder of the rubber roof that was glued beneath it. Villa Park Camper Roof Repair. Currently I can draw out the last bit of rubber roof from below the fiberglass and luan plywood

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I saw there were no bolts holding the roofing plywood down. It was simply glued. So I began thoroughly peeling it up. I can see the blue styrofoam insulation under the harmed areas of luan plywood on the roof covering. Notice there are no bolts in all holding down the roof covering plywood! It is totally glued.

Once I scuffed up some of the busted bits I got hold of a strong item of plywood and began to draw. The entire point began to draw up cleanly in one piece without harming the foam board insulation at all.

There is a metal enhanced tape under that joins the assemble. I don't know just how precisely they handled to glue whatever down so well and get this tape joining them from the bottom, however it was nicely done. The items of roof ply are signed up with together at the seams beneath with a metal-reinforced tape.

OCRV Center

Address: 23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
Phone: (714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

I rapidly realized the roofing system was shedding toughness and tightness as I pulled up the leading layer, so broke it off prior to the very first seam. A close of the steel framing in the roof covering: one inch wide, one and a fifty percent inches tall. Here's an information of the electrical wiring in the insulation foam and the strong wood supports where the antennas screw right into the roof covering.

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